
Aquaculture. No, it’s not a typo. Instead of farming cultivated plant foods we’re farming fish. And this year, we’ve reached a tipping point of sorts. The Washington Post reports that now, over ½ the fish consumed in the world will have been raised in pens, rather than caught. The implications are enormous.
Several years ago, I began the marine biology course that I taught at TA with a graph that showed the projected decline in ocean fish. The numbers of fish had been declining for several decades, but the frightening part was the projection out to the year 2050. The endpoint for this graph suggested that the oceans would be depleted of all fish. In other words, while a few species might survive in unique niches, fish - from the sharks to the scavengers – would disappear from our oceans. The oceans in a sense would become relatively lifeless pools of flooded sand.
The predator prey relationships of the past have been permanently altered given the huge increase in human population (from 1 billion to the current 6 billion in about 150 years). That increase, coupled with a commensurate increase in the world’s taste for seafood has lead to some drastic over fishing. Cheap, smaller fish are also being caught in massive numbers to be ground up into fish meal, to be fed to poultry, pigs, and ironically – farmed fish. In other words, fish are being hunted and caught to feed people. And fish.
Another article this past week discussed the imminent demise of the large blue fin tuna, a magnificent half-ton beast that is capable of swimming 3000 miles without stopping. Tuna, it seems, is about to become a victim of the global sushi craze. Tuna can’t be farmed. They are too large, too energetic, and they require too much space.
But other species can be grown from “egg-to-plate” as they say. Salmon are probably the best known and most popular of the farm-raised fish. Once considered a delicacy, salmon has literally become the “chicken of the sea”. I remember salmon selling for about $10/pound in the 1970s – that’s probably something like $25/pound today. Now, I see it selling for as little as $3.95 locally. Salmon, and now other fish, are becoming cheap and plentiful because they are being farmed, raised in huge circular pens like the one pictured above.
The fish are born into the tanks. They are raised on a diet of unused poultry trimmings from the millions of chickens that are raised in dark boxes, corn meal, and antibiotic powders. Not being free to swim the oceans, the fish also accumulate more body fat than a free, “wild” fish. This trait is particularly noticeable in farm-raised salmon. Genetically chosen for hardiness, and the ability to live in these conditions, the fish that you are eating are different from the fish your grandparents ate.
Shellfish too, are being farmed. Scientists report that some Chinese bays are so congested with nets, traps, and pens that they have become un-navigable. Lest you think this is an “Asian problem”, let me assure you that New England is one of the fastest growing fish farm regions in the country.
This is an unsustainable practice. As we deplete the oceans of its largest fish, and its small foraging fish, we are decimating the two ends of the oceanic food chain. Krill too – the small shrimp-like plankton that lays the foundation for the oceanic food web is also being sieved out of the Antarctic waters at alarming rates. Such over-fishing can lead to an environmental chain reaction of sorts. In the 1970s and again in the 1990s Peru exploited its anchovy population. Anchovies are small foraging fish. Not only did fish stocks decline, but so did local sea bird populations that depended on the small fish for their food. It took a change in government in 2006 to place restraints on fishing. Restraints that have lead to a recovery of the ecosystem.
That was the experience of a small, regional ecosystem. What happens when we deplete an ocean? What happens if the chain reaction truly starts, and species begin to disappear at an accelerating rate? What happens if the projections are correct, and the oceans do become dead zones in the next few years? What does it mean if the earth no longer has seafood?
What will happen to our poultry industry? What will happen to us?
Maybe
we're the chickens who have lost their heads.